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wb surf

my life in wrightsville beach, starting today


Took my landlord's longboard out for the first time this morning.  Fun, 1 - 2 ft. waves.  20 people out by 7 a.m.

longboardin', pt. 2
Ian and I had another idea session discussing the board's tail block, trying to iron out some design issues with the sunburst pattern.  The "sun" will now be more of an oval shape (uncut as of yet), and the rays are chunkier with thinner strips of yellowheart separating them.

The fin (a classic Greenough template*) will be cut from a piece of knotty pine salvaged from an old tear-down house in Wilmington.

*Fins evolved over the ensuing years, but essentially remained a sort of half-assed rudder until the mid-'60s, when throw-ahead surfer/inventor George Greenough began applying a new type of fin to his futuristic knee machines. Greenough's creations were called "high-aspect ratio fins," and while the template came from one of the tail fins of a blue fin tuna, the theory came from the disciplines of aerodynamics (the forces of drag upon the leading edge of the wing or fin are countered by the degree or "ratio" that they are swept back -- the "aspect").

mr. nesta

"right outside this /
lazy summer home . . ."

banks channel and cloud
Looking southwest.