wb surf

my life in wrightsville beach, starting today

race
wbsurf

In times like these, its always best to roll with the Godfather ("Talkin' Loud and Sayin' Nothin' ,").  Exerpt below is from the extended version.

don't be jivin' nobody    if they don't mean it don't be in it    get OUT of it    don't tell me what to do -- I'll do my own thing  I don't need your help, brother    yeah, yeah -- I don't need your thang   now if you're gon get down and be a man and help the people and we're together  don't tell me how to do my thang and you ain't doing NUTHIN' man -- now the NAME of the GAME is UNITY   everybody get together and work together, be ye black or white    it's RIGHT!    

it's-neither-black-or-white-it's-right   
it's-neither-white-or-black-it's-a-fact 

you got to be a man 
get yourself a gig and get offa that thang    
DO something
show everybody you're trying to do it  (yeah!)
show everybody you're tryin' to do it (right on!) 
show everybody you're trying to be right on (right on!) 
show everybody where you're at (right on!) . . . "


 


dawg pics
wbsurf


rolling gay at the masquerade.



that's bryan lopes on sax and moe's al schnier on guitar.


kenny, on his toes.



my face, week 9
wbsurf

with heather jo @ ratdog.  7 .18

the week that could have been; the week that was
wbsurf
I'm going to San Diego (home of Joel Tudor Surfboards, Pacific Beach and a dozen classic SoCal surf breaks) in two days (Monday) for a week long surf trip, and this past week provided the perfect set-up:  three days of chest- to head-high waves -- the best waves of the summer so far -- to get me ready for the size and power of west coast waves.  It was not to be, as I massively pulled/strained/tore the muscles along my ribcage while surfing Monday.  Until today I couldn't even lie on my stomach, and I haven't been in the ocean for 5 days.  Suck City.

This is what it looked like this week:


monday: d-day (disaster day), knee to waist.


tuesday, knee to waist, in big pain.


wednesday: the swell arrives


wednesday afternoon, still building: you know it's going to be good tomorrow


thursday: chest to head high, glassy, perfect.


thursday afternoon: still pumping


friday morning: still head high


friday evening in pouring rain, thunder and lightning: still some guys out


saturday morning: waist to chest and fading, and I'm still watching from the beach

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