Log in

No account? Create an account

wb surf

my life in wrightsville beach, starting today

up next

Another Friday / Saturday expression session!

manifesto: thought I'd posted . . .

this back in May or June.  I didn't.  I am now.  Not much has changed . . .

Why I’m here: 
To get brown get hard get blond get the soles of my feet tough as Eastwood;
to fish kayak surf swim boogieboard;
to start over and catch up where I left off;
to feel sun and salt and water on my skin every day;
to have 16-year-old stoke and 56-year-old surfstyle;
to go out on a lazy summer morning at sunrise with only 5 other people out and the waves are waist high and glassy and fun and the sun backlights wavecrest for two hours as a light spray blows back off the lip;
to watch surf vids and BSG;
to design a balsa board to my own specs and design;
to bottom turn top turn sideslip cutback drop-knee get barreled arm-drag hangfive hangten again and again and again;
to break out break up break down break old habits;
to see it different see it new see and smell the same ocean and primal marsh flats that were there as forever-ago as I can conceive overflown by prehistoric pelicans and swum in by dolphins elliptical;
to share it with anyone who wants to come over; 
to dream of perfect unattainable waves and to apeshit anticipate a good swell and to bitch mightily when it’s flat for days on end;
to take it a day at a time knowing I’ve only got six months to do that;
to not waste a day (but knowing I will);
to do a couple of short films to keep a blog to write a story or two;
to eat fish and shrimp and crabs caught right here;
today -- all in these days between.