wb surf

my life in wrightsville beach, starting today

Sam George . . .
wbsurf
worked for Surfing magazine.  He saw Dora in South Africa and they got into a conversation about surf mags, California, "the great commercial conglomerate," etc.  Dora: "I don't understand why you're willing to suffer the sins of your fathers."  George: "Well, that's funny coming from you, Miki.  I've suffered your sins my whole life.  My whole life."  Dora: "I don't know what you're talking about."  George:  "Who taught you to kick your board at another surfer?  You invented localism.  You ruined surfing for the next generation.  You did it.  So don't talk to me about suffering the sins of my father.  I've grown up suffering from your sin, Miki."

greg noll . . .
wbsurf

and Miki watched Surfers: The Movie together.  Noll: "Dora and I had both done interviews for Delaney . . ..  When we watched it, he almost brought tears to my eyes . . . he was so immersed in this film, seeing it for the first time, that he remeinded me of some of these old Hollywood stars who have their own projection rooms and will watch their old movies over and over.  Like Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard.
     "His bit about life and all the bullshit going over his head while he was  shooting the tube is the best I've ever heard.  It's an absolute classic.  Anyone who's seen the film will always remember him for that.  I looked over at him -- he didn't smile a whole lot --  and he had this shit-eating grin on his face.  I could see his mouth moving as he spoke on the screen." -- pp.329 - 330

The rap starts at 0:45:


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