October 21st, 2009


9' 4".  18 3/4 x 24 x 14 1/2.

It began at the end of May; it was ready the last week of September, the day before I left for the northeast.  It's beautiful, I hated to put wax on it.  Ian, the craftsman/shaper, went above-and-beyond the call:  entertaining/implementing my impossible-to-execute ideas (the U-shaped piece that frames/sets off the sun in the tailblock) and contributing (non-crazy/tempering) ideas of his own.  It was a pleasure; it was fun.  Greg Eavey then made it shine with his flawless glass job.

Been out twice: Saturday and Monday.  Monday was the end of the NE/E swell that had been coming in since Wednesday.  The knee-to-waist waves were crisp and hollow and close-out-y at low tide, mellower as the tide came in.  I'm still getting it dialed-in: sometimes it's a log, other times floaty and responsive. 

One wave: wind offshore, waist-high right, peeling, I'm barrelled, arm-drag, stay tucked, somebody watches and hoots: a few seconds . . . then it's over. 

Ian; his handiwork.